Maharashtra has been a favourite of mine since the times I did my post graduation but I never got around to exploring the beautiful heritage of this state. Almost a decade later, I finally get around to doing so and find myself at two Forts that I decide to explore.
Daulatabad Fort
Fourteen kilometers north-west of Aurangabad, the road to Ellora cuts through the ramparts of Daulatabad, one of the greatest forts of the Deccan. The site is marked by a hill that rises dramatically a hundred and eighty-three meters above the plain. Its artificially excavated sides create a rocky cone that serves as an unmistakable landmark.
Daulatabad was originally known as Devagiri, headquarters of the Yadavas, the most powerful rulers of Marathwada in the centuries prior to the conquest of the Delhi forces in 1296. Principal stronghold of the Tughlugs in the Deccan, and for a time after 1327 their principal capital, the site was renamed Daulatabad. It was here that the Bahmanis first declared their independence from Delhi in 1347. Remaining under Bahmani control throughout the fifteenth century, the site never lost its reputation as an impregnable stronghold. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, it continued to command the region and was much fought over by the Nizam Shahis and Mughals, eventually coming under Mughal control where it remained until Aurangzeb’s death in 1707, after which it passed into the hands of the Hyderabad kings.
The site is divided into three distinct zones: the conical hill itself, known as Balakot; an almost circular walled area below that adjoins the hill on its north and east sides, and which forms an inner fort, or Kataka; and an outer fort, Ambarkot, defined by walls that create a vast area fanning out from Kataka to the north and south over a distance of almost two kilometers. The fortifications of both Kataka and Ambarkot employ double and even triple lines of massive walls. These are set at a marked angle and are lined with slit-holes and battlements, additional protection is achieved by the use of deep moats. The three gateways which give access to Kataka are approached through complicated entryways with many changes of direction. That on the east, generally used by most visitors today, is shielded by solid walls with curved outlines that project almost eighty meters outwards from the mainline of fortifications. The gateways preserve massive wooden doors with great iron spikes; cannons dating from the later centuries are still inside. Access to the innermost Balakot is further shielded by a rock-cut trench which can only be crossed at one point over a heavily guarded drawbridge.
While the remains of royal and religious structures are dotted throughout the site, many of them are now in ruins and present overgrown piles of rubble. Ongoing excavations at the site, particularly in Kataka, are revealing vestiges of courtly residences, waterworks, and service structures, some of which appear to date back to Bahmani times. The houses of the present-day village are probably built over earlier remains.
Jami Masjid and Chand Mandir
By far the most completely preserved structures at Daulatabad are the Jami Masjid and Chand Minar. These stand freely in Kataka Fort, on either side of the road that leads to the base of Balakot. The great mosque was built in 1318, during the reign of Qutbuddin Mubarak, the Khalji ruler of Delhi. It comprises of a vast square courtyard with a spacious prayer hall on the west consisting of a hundred and six columns arranged in twenty-five aisles, each five bays deep and roofed with a shallow dome. An enlarged dome rises over the bay immediately in front of the local Mihrab in the rear wall. Though many of the columns have figural and floral motifs carved onto their shafts, they do not all seem to be re-used elements from dismantled temples–some were obviously created new especially for this structure. The almost square courtyard, no less than 80 by 60 metres, is the largest in the Deccan. It can be entered from three sides through domed chambers, which on the east is approached by a flight of steps. Since the mosque had been abandoned for many years, it was recently converted into a temple by installing an image of Bharata Mata, a goddess personifying the modern Indian nation. As a result, the monument has come to be known as Bharat Mata Mandir.
The Jami Masjid itself was never provided with a minaret, probably because of the separate structure known as the Chand Minar standing a short distance away. This evidently assumed the functions of a prayer tower, but also seems to have served as a highly visible victory monument. The shaft, which is thirty metres high, is divided into four storeys. A fluted section was added by Alauddin Hassan to mark his conquest of the fort in 1435. A brass crescent moon protrudes from the bulbous, dome-like element that crowns the tower. At its base, the shaft emerges from a small structure, with twenty-four small chambers, including a diminutive mosque dating from 1445. Originally this structure was adorned with glazed tiles, a few of which are still preserved. Brackets supporting balconies have carved motifs. To the south of the road, near the north-west corner of the Jami Masjid, is a vast reservoir known as the Elephant Tank. Yet another mosque is located on the right of the principal road that traverses Kataka. Its unadorned prayer chamber is raised on a high plinth and has undecorated columns and an arched Mihrab.
The royal residential quarter at Daulatabad is located beneath the hill in the fortified zone that is reached only after passing across the drawbridge, already mentioned. A labyrinth of halls, pavilions, and courts is found here, most parts of which are dilapidated and overgrown. The best preserved structure is the Chini Mahal, so called because of the traces of brightly colored, blue and white Chinese tiles set in its masonry façade. The interior of the pavilion is dominated by a double-storeyed hall, roofed with transverse arches, with arcaded chambers at two levels to one side. A larger, but more ruinous complex opposite has triple chambers with arched doorways opening onto an inner court. Stucco decoration, especially the medallions with geometric and arabesque motifs, suggests a fifteenth century date; fragments of wooden beams and brackets project from the walls. Windows set into the walls have perforated designs with plaster covered brickwork. Yet another courtly pavilion is situated high on the citadel, just beneath the summit. The part-octagonal arcade that projects outwards from the main structure is typical of the late Mughal period. While visiting Daulatabad fort one can also explore the Ajanta and Ellora caves, Bibi ka Maqbara, Panchakki as other attractive tourist attractions. To get the fort by air, nearest airport is the Chikkalthana Airport, by rail you can get off at Aurangabad railway station and if travelling by bus, nearest bus stop is the Aurangabad Central Bus Station.
Gawilgadh Fort
Shrouded in mist and myths is the Gavali tribal fort of Gawilgadh on the Chikhaldara Plateau, which is now a part of the Melghat Tiger Project. The countryside mountainous terrain rising up to 3600 ft. – is proverbially as old as the hills. It was here, as narrated in the Mahabharata, that the mighty Bheema slayed the demon Kichaka, and threw his body down the valley which came to be known as Kichak Dara, and that is how the region is now known as Chikhaldara.
The fort which has faced turbulent past is surrounded by the serenity of the dense forests. Built by the Gavalis, (or cowherds), in the 12th – 13th century, the fort was occupied later by the mighty Gonds, the last of the sub-continental powers to fall to the Mughals. The first steps towards curbing Napoleon’s growing power were taken here. The Duke of Wellington, then Col. Arthur Wellesley, wrested the fort for the British from the defending Maratha garrison here, only a few years before he vanquished Napoleon at Waterloo. Today, no traces of the dramatic battles remain.
The fort walls and ramparts still stand in spite of being battered by the ravages of war and weather. Four gates guard the strategic entrances, with only a cool wind whistling past them. There is no trace of the tunnel, reputedly linking it to the not-too-distant Gond fort at Narnala which stands tall at 3475 ft. yet relatively well preserved with 67 bastions and over 25 gates. One can trek to Narnala, or drive through the thick of the forest, to discover yet another jewel of a fort, displaying in its walls and gates, a curious blend of Gond and Mughal influence.
The fort has some exceptionally beautifully carved idols, which were sculpted during the period of the Nizams, when Elichpur was the capital. The fact that the art of architecture and sculpture evolved in that period is quite evident in the fort. The carvings on the walls of the fort display elephants, bulls, tigers and lions. There is also evidence of Hindi, Urdu and Arabic scripts on the walls. Idols of Lord Hanuman and Lord Shankar are also seen in the fort. There are 10 cannons in the fort which are made of iron, copper and brass. The fact that the weapons are still intact in good condition even after three hundred years later only reflects the kind of technology that was used for arms and ammunition manufacturing.
Sip at its innumerable tanks and cisterns, the locals swear by the medicinal values of the waters of the Shakkar Lake. Also there are many small lakes and ponds that form the water sources for this illustrious area. The Bamnitalao, Khambtalao, Devtalao and Dhobitalao are the lakes that never seem to dry up. The Machhitola Lake, located outside the fort is the only lake that dries up in summer. Some of the other areas around the fort that can be checked out while in Chikhaldara include Devi Point, Mozari Point, Goraghat Point and Bhimkund Point. The fort can be reached by air – nearest airport being Nagpur Airport; by rail – nearest railway station being Badnera (Jn) Railway Station; and by road – nearest bus station being Paratwada (Dist. Amravati) bus station.
