Mangoes and Indians are entwined in history. Although the western world has woken upto it’s delicious refreshing taste since their imperialistic expansion in the last 500 years, the people of Indian subcontinent have been enjoying it for nearly 4000 years, although Scientific evidence suggests an even older history. The earliest documentation of the fruit was found in the North East India, Myanmar and Bengal from where it trickled down to South India where it was called Maanga along the Malabari coast. The Portugese who were the first explorers to this region named it Mango and introduced Europe to the King of fruits.
The History of Mango
Mangoes have been revered throughout the Indian history. Buddhism associates the fruit with prosperity and their monks took the fruit along with them on their travails. Explorers from outside noticed the Mauryans planting Mango trees along sides of the highways. But the most interesting of stories comes from the Mughal period. While Babur established a courier route from Delhi to Kabul to never lose touch with his favourite fruit, Akbar was instrumental in establishing Mango orchards at Lakhi Bagh near Darbhanga. The Mughal emperors also created newer varieties of mangoes using the method of grafting. The Totapuri, Rataul and the Kesar all owe alliegance to Mughal Empire. The fascination with mangoes reached such a crescendo that Shah Jahan had his son Aurangzeb placed under house arrest for hoarding mangoes. The Khansamas behind the creation of famous Aam Panna and the rarely found Aam Ka Meetha Pulao were richly rewarded. The entry of British heralded a decrease in the status of Mango from royalty to just being a fruit. But Chefs from around the country are striving to put the Mango back on its pedestal this summer season.
Some drinks to start off with
The old Malayali name Mangaa makes a comeback as a fusion of North and South at Monkey Bar. The new cocktail combines the Aam Panna with vodka along with some cumin, salt and sweet lime to give it a layer of added flavours. The balance of salt, sweet and spice makes it a perfect drink in this summer. The Kairi Shikanji by Executive Chef M U Kasture at The Ashok, New Delhi is a refreshing start to your meal while Subbraman G, Beverage Manager at Barbeque Nation Pvt. Ltd. puts a twist on the classic Aamras with some mango pickle in it.
Momos have quickly shot to fame all over North India. You’ll probably be finding one at every street corner in Delhi. Although the original recipe combines with a fiery red chili sauce, the raw mango filling tempered with caramelized sugar by Executive Chef Gourav Malhotra, Royal Orchid Resort and Convention Centre, Bangalore has a refreshing new taste on the palate. From the western part of the country, the Alphonso mango rules roost. Folklore has it that Raghunath Peshwa, a Maratha planted 10 million mango trees to celebrate his supremacy and the Alphonso mango actually took seed here. But history suggests that it was the Portugese who cross bred it and named it after one of their noblemen and military expert, Afonso de Albuquerque. This aromatic fruit finds place in the The Royal Alphonso Festival going on at the Sheraton Grand, Bund Road, Pune.
The AAM Fest 50 at Puranmal Juhu, Mumbai is bringing out one of the most complete mango menus of the summer. The menu uses quite a few raw mango components which lend it a characteristic tangy flavour. There is a raw mango Chaat and a raw mango Dal which will definitely pique your senses. The use of raw mango in Dal is pretty common in households of East India. It helps to keep the body cool during the sweltering summer months.
Aam Papad or mango pulp rolled out is sheets may be an underrated ingredient but in Chef Abhishek Basu’s new menu at Fire, The Park New Delhi it transforms into a Mango and Mint Panacotta with an Aam Papad to bring a new level of taste to it. For a Bengali like me, a dessert brings about the perfect end to a meal.
Chef Anand Panwar’s delicious new Cocoma (featured pic) at The Roseate, New Delhi shoots to the top of my list with an intricate layer of textures and flavours. Chef Prem Kumar Pogakula’s flame baked Mango Rasmalai at The Imperial is another dessert that you should try out. The flame baking with Brandy gives it an aroma and aftertaste that stays on your palate.
This summer season take your mango obsession to an all new level altogether and try out these mango dishes. This was firt published in FnBBuzz magazine. You can read it here.
