Chugging along the rustic landscape, the local train grinds to a halt at the bustling Serampore station. I had boarded the Bardhaman Local, the lifeline that connects Kolkata from its Howrah station till the bustling metropolis of Bardhaman about 2 hours away. After lurching in the newly refurbished wagons and munching on repeats of Jhaal Moori (puffed rice mixed with masalas, mustard oil and chillies), I am still looking out for the innumerable hawkers that throng these trains and sell their product with some Jordan Belfort styled sales pitches. I am in West Bengal, the state which kickstarted India’s freedom revolution. West Bengal, also the state which had a stronghold of every major colonial power in Europe.

Danish remnants at Serampore

I get down at the station and quickly hitch myself a ride on the local rickshaws. Along the embankments of the Ganges, I discover the remnants of Fredericksnagore, a city named after King Frederick V and established by a group of Danish traders in 1755. Although the rapid commercialization soon after the land had been sold to the English led to the destruction of most of the buildings, the St. Olav’s Church and a round sitting place on the bank still remain. Serampore is also home to Serampore College where Asia’s only College of Theology still churns out students. The college has elements of typical Victorian architecture as the English under the tutelage of Sir William Carey constructed it in the early 1800s. The tall white columns along with the wooden winding staircases were framed by burgeoning oak trees. The best time to visit Serampore in Bengal is in June when the city comes alive with the Rath Yatra.

Chandannagore: The cultural capital of the French

My next destination is Chandannagore, about 5 stations and 15 mins away from Serampore. The specialty on the platforms here is brinjal fritters along with puffed rice. Chandannagore with its ubiquitous charm had been the financial capital of French East India. The Strand, built years ago before the British named it as such is one of the hot spots of Chandannagore where the junta congregates for evening walks and munching on Phuchkas. Across the street, the Dupleix house stands as a remnant of the French occupation. The former residence of Joseph Francois Dupleix, the Chief Administrator of Chandannagore, it has been converted into a museum which houses some of the French furniture and the cannons used during Anglo-French wars. Monsieur Dupleix was also a lover of arts and music which led to the city becoming the and cultural capital of French East India. Under his patronage, the Hotel de Paris which has now been converted into the civil court and the Chandannagore College became edifices that represent French architecture today. No visit to Chandannagore is complete without trying out the Jolbhora Sandesh. Made out of Chena and filled with a sweet liquid centre, you can find this easily at the numerous Mishthan Bhandaars spread all over the city, the most popular of which are Surya Kumar Modak & Grandsons and Baba Panchanan Mishthan Bhandaar.

Portugese Basilica at Bandel

Back on the train and a few minutes later, we land up in Bandel. The sizzling hiss of the batter hitting the oil hits my ears as my nose wafts towards a stall selling Chena Jalebi. Just like many of West Bengal’s towns, Bandel is bustling with crowds and a bit unplanned, confused between heading into the future or sticking to its roots. The Portuguese had initially landed on the West coast of India before striking up contacts in the Eastern region. They sought to convert the native population to Christianity and established the Bandel Church in 1599. Although it was destroyed in the mid 17th architecture, the Portuguese rebuilt it back and it was designated as a Basilica in 1988. I fall in love with the Doric architecture and the countless paintings depicting the life of Christ that adorn the walls. The Chapel has a recessed pulpit where the statue of Our Lady of Holy Rosary resides while light streams in through the tinted glass. A visit to Bandel should also be combined with a visit to the Hooghly Imambaara about 3 kms away from the Basilica.

The Dutch cemetery at Chuchura

I head off to my last destination at Chuchura. Although much of the city’s Dutch history has been destroyed, few cannons of the era gone by still stand strong at the Madrassa. A Dutch cemetery is all that remains in a city which was exchanged by the British for Sumatra in Indonesia. The British, on the other hand, have left quite an indelible mark on the city. A massive Clock Tower was constructed in the middle of the town in 1914 in honor of King Edward VII. In place of the Dutch Governor House, the latter constructed the residence of the Divisional Commissioner of Burdwan. Inside the building, a Dutch plaque stating still stands testament to the Dutch colonization.

The easiest way to approach the cities for day trips are from Howrah. Tickets usually cost INR 5-10. You can also drive along with the narrow Grand Trunk Road.