I have spent many an evening swinging back tequila shots with lime and salt. But my writing about alcohol took me to the exact focal point of the existence of this drink. I take you around Mexico in a tequila trail to discover the rich cultural heritage behind the drink. My research leads me to some of the most beautiful blue agave plantations all over Mexico. The Tequila Trail is one of the best ways to explore the Mexican countryside and explore essential parts of their cuisine. So, pack up your livers and come along.
The history of tequila
The history of Tequila takes us back quite a few centuries. Even before the Spanish had settled in Central America, locals were brewing a wine from the local agave plant, Pulque. The Blue Agave plant, although looks quite like a cactus, but it actually belongs to the family of lilies and aloe. After the Spanish Conquistadors ran out of their rum, they distilled the Pulque and created the Agave wine, also known as Mezcal.
The origins of the first Tequila is shrouded in mystery. Theories abound whether it’s production started in the town of Tequila or in the valley of Amatitan. But what we do know that is Tequila production is limited to the state of Jalisco and a few neighboring areas. The particular agave plant from tequila can be manufactured is the Weber Blue Agave, farms of which dot the Jalisco countryside serving more than 50 distilleries.
The journey begins
Our tequila trail starts in Guadalajara, about 550 kms west of Mexico City. The whole city along with the old haciendas and the agave fields have been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our first destination is the EL Lano distillery. A family which has been making tequila for 5 generations, the Orendain family are proud owners of Arette and Tres Agaves brands. I am lucky enough to witness the production of tequila in all it’s glory. I try to understand the complex nuances behind the drink that has become the lifeline of Mexico.
Do You Know?
Water plays a major role in making any drink famous. The clear waters from the volcanic valley of Tequila are the reason behind the clear, citrusy taste of the Tres Agaves tequila. There are also some aged ones: Reposado and Anejo which are aged in white oak barrels from Tennessee. The Anejo has a smoky note to it, so characteristic of the whiskeys from America. I also find a 100% organic cocktail mix for me to carry home. Just a few splashes of tequila and I’ll be set for the evening.
Casa Suaza
The Casa Suaza distillery is next on our itinerary. We pay respects to the U.S Tequila godfather before moving deeper into the hacienda. There is a serenity in the place that befuddles anyone coming from the cities. Beautiful tree lined pathways lead us to the agave fields. Fields dotted with blue agave plants spread out in all directions as a Jimador (Agave Farmer) shows me how to harvest the plant and find the central portion of the plant. I walk back to “The Perseverence” or the distillery. A sweet smell hangs in the air as the agaves are roasted and then all the sugars extracted from them before starting the fermentation.
The Constance is the aging cellar at the Casa Suaza distillery. It houses over 15,000 barrels of tequila being properly aged to explode on your palate. Our guide tells us about the Puros which is made from 100% agave juice and Mixto which has watered down with cane sugar and caramel colour. I take a whiff of the Suaza XA limited edition and it is an explosion of aromas. I taste the tequila in it’s purest form without any interference from the lime and salt. There are strong notes of citrus, sweet fruits and a smokiness to round it off.
Aboard the Tequila Express
The easiest way to understand tequila in a small amount of time is by boarding the Tequila Express. The train originates in Guadalajara and takes us on a day-long trip through the UNESCO heritage sites of Jalisco. On board, there are the traditional Mexican singers (Mariachi) and loads of spicy Mexican food which gives us a true experience of traditional Mexico. The train snakes it way through Casa Suaza and Casa Herradura, two of biggest producers of tequila in the world. The most memorable experience of the trip is the blue tinged countryside rustling along in our windows.
Train Marathon: Jose Cuervo Express
But I wasn’t leaving Mexico without visiting the magical town of Tequila. The Jose Cuervo Express is my next destination as I hop onto the train at 9 o clock in the morning. The first order of things is another master class that gives us a short blow up of the history and process of making tequila. La Rojena distillery is the oldest of the lot. The distinctive crow marks the entrance of the distillery as I descend into the dark cellar of the Cuervo family. It is a place which highlights the hard work and simplicity of the Mexicans. The silence and the darkness of the moment envelopes me as I close my eyes and draw in a lung full of the woody aromas.
A tasting session at the tasting rooms is a reinvigorating experience as my palate is finally beginning to distinguish between the different notes of the tequila. A trip to the Margarita Bar is warranted as I get to taste the most authentic versions of the drink I have tasted so many times in my blogging career. I take my cocktail to the ubiquitous beautiful Tahona. The Tahona is the old stone mill which is a picturesque experience. The yellow painted walls are a stark contrast to the gigantic stones lying around. The last agenda on my trip is my own special bottle of Reserva de la Familia. I pour it from an aging barrel into my own personalized bottle. I came to Mexico to learn about tequila, I am leaving with a piece of the country’s history.