The princely states of undivided pre-Independence India had a rich history of culinary exploits.The kitchens of these royal households bore witness to some of the most intricate recipes ever created. These recipes also entitled a complex set of instructions and ingredients. But a major upheaval happened post-Independence as these states were robbed of their royal status and their properties confiscated. As these royal families are fading away, so are their recipes which have been passed on verbatim through generations. But a few of these families have their own set of saviors.
One of them is Executive Chef Akshraj Jodha who plies his trade at ITC Hotels’ landmark property at Jodhpur. A 14th generation descendant of the royal family that ruled a small piece of land (82 villages) between the princely states of Mewar and Marwar near Ajmer, his interpretation of the modern Rajasthani food is truly mind-blowing. Recently he cooked dishes from his ancestral village of Akheraj Deolia at ITC Maurya’s Kitchens of India. But before we jump into the food, a bit of history about the place.
Mewar V/S Marwar
Akshraj’s ancestry starts nearly 200 years ago. The intense fighting between the two kingdoms of Mewar and Marwar meant Rao Akheraj, grandson of the ruler of Jodhpur had to escape out to a small strip of land about an hour’s drive from Ajmer. This is where he launched a series of guerrilla attacks against his king. But the war wasn’t always the carnage we see in today’s world. It was an elaborate set which was played out in a specific season. In the years in which wars weren’t fought, hunting used to be the favourite pastime. The first vestiges of the game food probably started off from the hunting parties of yore. As they could only carry minimal items salt, chillies and clarified butter were the only ingredients of the famous Junglee Maas. 
We start off with some lamb shanks that have been modified with flavours of Rajasthan. It is a gamut of sour and heat flavours that combine with the umami. We may have heard quite a bit about the Laal Maans but this is the first time I have a crack at the Hara Maans. The chicken is cooked up in a lovely curry of betel leaves and chillies. The betel leaves provide it with an earthy flavour while the chillies give it a jot of heat. “My mother is from Gujarat and that has led to the incorporation of a few Gujarati flavours to our Thaali” Chef Jodha adds up as his next dish makes us experience Gujarat in its truest flavours. The chicken is cooked up in a curry of Amla Murabba which gives it a definitive sweet taste that is very uncharacteristic of food from Rajasthan. But a Rajasthani meal will never be complete without a spicy meat dish. The Kale Mircha ka Murgh adds a sense of heat that was missing as the thick curry whettles down the spice from the black pepper.
“The dry nature of the land prevents much of vegetables to grow which is compensated by the use of gram flour.” Chef Jodha enlightens us as he goes gaga over the versatility of Besan (Gram flour). He also tells me the story of how the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan chose Chana as the only ingredient he was allowed when he had been imprisoned by his son at the Agra Fort. The activities at the villages also correspond to the harvest seasons of the Chana. Just after the harvest, preparations are made for converting it into a myriad of textures, including the Papad. That Papad finds usage in this menu with a stuffing of potato. The spicy mixtures burst through the layers of earthy flavours, so associated with the Chana Papad. “Even the concept of traditional cuisine is an ever-changing one.
What you call experimental today will become part of the tradition few decades down the line” Akshraj drops a bomb on us by taking up the example of tomato. Although it has never been a part of the Rajasthani cuisine half a century ago, it is now one of its integral parts. Experiments with the tomato have created a newer form of the traditional Laal Maans. The semi-arid region also produces cereals which have a lesser water content like Baajra and Corn. We try out some Baajre and Missi Roti along with the curries that we eat. One of the classic ways to eat these beads is to let the curries soak into moisten them before consuming. But the vegetarian sojourn doesn’t end here. The Sookhe Gulab Jamun ki Sabzi and the Khatte Aloo are typical of the kingdoms of the area.
The sourness which is imparted by the yogurt plays a major part in cooling down your body during the scorching summer months. We end off with a Hare Moong Dal ka Halwa. Although the Moong Dal Halwa has made its mark amongst Old Delhi foodies, the Green Moong Dal imparts quite an unique flavour to the halwa. The Rajas have long gone and their kingdoms are also slowly turning to dust. What remains is only a speck of remembrance passed down generations. The cuisines of medieval and ancient India are something that you must try out before they disappear in the pages of history.
Although it has never been a part of the Rajasthani cuisine half a century ago, it is now one of its integral parts. Experiments with the tomato have created a newer form of the traditional Laal Maans. The semi-arid region also produces cereals which have a lesser water content like Baajra and Corn. We try out some Baajre and Missi Roti along with the curries that we eat. One of the classic ways to eat these beads is to let the curries soak into moisten them before consuming. But the vegetarian sojourn doesn’t end here. The Sookhe Gulab Jamun ki Sabzi and the Khatte Aloo are typical of the kingdoms of the area. The sourness which is imparted by the yogurt plays a major part in cooling down your body during the scorching summer months. We end off with a Hare Moong Dal ka Halwa. Although the Moong Dal Halwa has made its mark amongst Old Delhi foodies, the Green Moong Dal imparts quite an unique flavour to the halwa. The Rajas have long gone and their kingdoms are also slowly turning to dust. What remains is only a speck of remembrance passed down generations. The cuisines of medieval and ancient India are something that you must try out before they disappear in the pages of history.
