Masala Library, BKC, Mumbai

Masala library is a fiesta of flavours. Jiggs Kalra’s promise of not just serving food but memories holds true as Indian cuisine marries molecular gastronomy in a match made in heaven. Drawing from techniques like spherification and quick freezing with liquid nitrogen, the Chefs at one of India’s topmost restaurants are pushing Indian dishes to the extreme. In a country on a fasttrack to westernisation, the invasion of foreign cuisines has been taking the spotlight away from the good old Indian cuisine. But these experiments are correcting that, albeit with a whiff of fresh air.

Manned by a professional serving staff with an intricate knowledge of the product being put out on the table, they manage to impress everyone from foodies to critics. As Himanshu has left for greener pastures and Sourabh being sent to sheperd the kitchens at Farzi Cafe, the kitchens now are manned by the ebullient Dhaani. Commandeered by her, we start our journey.

The opening is magnificent. The amuse bouche is a bubble of thandai spherified. Just burst the bubble and let the flavours flow over you accompanied by a Kalonji dotted cheddar cheese infused pao.

The soup has been deconstructed into a chai. The dehydrated mushrooms form the tea leaves whereas the truffle oil has been heatblasted. The delicate earthy flavours of the mushroom with the slight oiliness of the truffle combine perfectly to thrill your senses.

The salad is a conglomerate of textures. Crispy spicy banana with a cold sour curd rice and offset with the heat from either the asparagus or the pepper prawns.

The first vegetarian starter is an ode to the punjabi sarson da saag. A galawati made of Mustard adorned by a stuffed kulcha and popcorn to signify makka.

The portobello mushrooms overwhelm the taste from the cream cheese and other ingredients as only the crushed walnuts can keep with it.

The malabari parantha reinvented as a quesadilla is filled with a mild flavoured vegetable qorma tempered in ghee.

On the non vegetarian front, the hottest ribs on the world ruled the roost. Delicately tenderised fall off the bone pork cooked in a spicy mix whose heat leaves your sinuses cleared and nose reddened.

The galawati kebab with the tawa tikka is accompanied by a Kerala varqi parantha. Two textures, one plate. Minced and spicy galawati kebab competes with the fibrous and sweet tikka.

The chutney waali machchi fails to impress with the mild flavour of the fish not sitting well with the mild flavour from the coriander rassa. A bit of a strong flavour like that of imli just might make a stronger case.

The molecular innovations percolates

down to the drinks as well. The burnt curry leaf Martini is vodka based. The strong sour essence from the curry leaf in a slightly sweet cocktail. The Star Anise gin based cocktail is a revelation. Sweet earthy flavours with a star anise foam to boost. You have to open your mouth wide to let the foam cascade down along with your drink.

Just before the mains, a sorbet of Mishti Doi turns up adorned by a sliver of strawberry coulis. Compared to the Hajmola sorbet at Farzi, Dhani lets rip all the flavours.

The vegetarian mains consists of a crispy fried brinjal in a sour rasam. The crispiness from the brinjal offsets the creamy rasam.

But it’s the non vegetarian mains which takes the day. Perfectly tenderised duck (mind you that is indeed a rarity) cooked in a sweet and sour plum qorma. Even the kashmiri in the gang sighs with pleasure.

But even after so much innovation, the chef keeps the daal makhni traditional and serves it along with a thick raita of pomegranate seeds and spherified rose syrup.

But it’s always been the desserts that have set both Masala Library and her sister Farzi Cafe apart from other places. The Ras Malai is lined by apple cream and the ras takes precedence over the malai in taste.

One of their newer inventions is the chai ice cream. Bitter chai covered in the sweet earthy smell of cardamom over an air made of chai.

But their piece de resistance is the starfish shaped jalebi caviar with rabri and a saffron air. The jalebi caviar is unapologetically sweet and deep fried whereas the creaminess of the rabri makes it a marriage made in heaven. Add to that the delicately flavoured saffron air and you got the perfect family. A dish which makes you think whether it was intended for mortals, you would not mind killing over this one.

Masala Library captures your heart withsome ethereally cooked food. Food which makes you happy, real happy.