Baar Baar, New Delhi
Chef Sujan Sarkar is back in town and how. After spending a couple of years in the States setting up two Indian themed restaurants, Rooh in San Francisco and Baar Baar in New York, Chef Sarkar comes back to Delhi with a pop-up of Baar Baar. While the Manhattan crowd has always been unforgiving to Indian flavours, but his take on producing these flavours in an uncomplicated way has meant that even the vociferous Yankees have sit up and taken note. While the pop-up opens up in Khan Market, most of the menu and decor resembles the New York outlet and allows us Delhiites a taste of his wonder.
The two-floored restaurant is impressive with it’s simple casual vibe that has come to define the Chef himself. Dressed in a Tee and Jeans, he shows us around the top floor which opens into a balcony and a lot of vibrant art that adorns the walls. Sitting true to his motto of keeping Indian food simple and uncomplicated, the menu consists of plates rather than the traditional combo of starters and mains. Just drop in and share a couple of plates over some cocktails which showcase the best of Indian flavours.
It’s not all about smoke and gas for Chef Sarkar who chooses the beauty of technicalities and balance of flavours to define what he serves at Baar Baar. Although the liquor license is still awaited but the plans for incorporating Nolen Gur into one sounds quite interesting. As with most of the popular Chefs worldwide, the focus is on promoting local flavours and artisans, just as he did with the Tasting Labs at Olive before he left to test the western waters. Not only is the art on the walls sourced locally but he’s also incorporating the famous Daulat ki Chaat waala from Old Delhi into his team. So no more heading off to the dingy lanes of Chandni Chowk to find this winter classic, you can have your fill right here in Khan Market.
The menu in itself is divided into Vegetarian and Non Vegetarian plates intersected by a Cheese platter which features exclusively home-grown products. There’s a Kodai Cambrie which has been fried along with some Gouda from the mountains and an Apricot Cream Cheese from Pondicherry served along with some sweet Murabba. It’s this sweetness which raises it’s head quite a bit through the menu. Be it the Kashmiri Duck Kulcha served with a healthy dose of Parmesan and Truffle or the Duck Seekh Kebabs served with an Apricot jam and an Ulte Tawa ka Parantha. There’s a load of non-vegetarian happiness on the menu with a Chicken Liver and Liquid Bheja Pate that’s served with a Taftan or the Pork Belly served with a Tandoori BBQ sauce, but it’s the Baar Baar Fried Chicken that takes the crown any day. Two pieces of crispy fried Chicken that takes it’s inspiration from both the Old Dilli style that we have come to love so much along with the American style, it’s served with a dollop of homemade Ketchup and a Gangura and Jalapeno Chutney that resembles our own Mint Chutney in it’s colour but is an explosion of flavours on the palate.
Although the meat items on the menu go quite a distance, it isn’t that Chef Sarkar has ignored the vegetarians. His Cauliflower Koliwada served with a Peanut Chutney is a throwback to my undergraduate days in Maharashtra which the Lentil Cake served with a Malai Broccoli and Pumpkin is quite akin to the Bengali Dhoka I eat quite often. But his marvels don’t just end at the plates, it’s also the dessert plates which have you longing back for more. A Churros served with a Chocolate Mousse fluffed up with Oranges and Raagi brownies means that you wouldn’t be filled up after just one. Chef Sujan Sarkar’s menu at Baar Baar NYC’s cousin Delhi is a tribute to all the Indian flavours that he has experienced during his long and illustrious career and is something that will dazzle you the day you visit.
Where: 2,3 Khan Market
Price for 2: INR 2500
