Although the craze of food and travel blogging may have just caught on, but history is dotted with people who have chronicled food and travel since times immemorial. So as an ode to these original bloggers, we delve into our today’s review. The story of an uncle and nephew duo who travelled the length and breadth of India during the British Raj. William and Thomas Daniell were landscape artists who arrived in India during the late 18th century to paint the rich culture and culinary traditions that characterised Hindustan. Daniell’s Tavern at The Imperial sought to recreate their legacy through a culinary menu that takes us through three strongholds of food in the country. One of the rare restaurants in Delhi serving out top notch Bengali food, the restaurant also has strong influences from the Awadhi and Chettinad cuisines. The restaurant was revamped in 2012 in keeping with the modern times but the beautiful artistry that exists on the walls and the excellent hospitality keeps the regulars coming back.
As I sit down for dinner with Executive Sous Chef Prem Kumar Pogakula, he regales me with his recently concluded biking trip to Ladakh while forcing me to nearly try every non vegetarian item on the menu. The starters remain quintessentially Awadhi as a Rangoli Seekh (Moghul’s Pride) makes it’s mark with the perfect texture and the hint of mace. A Salmon Tikka (Garrison’s Victory) also impresses with the perfect match of Indian spices over the Salmon. Most of the large sized prawns I have had at restaurants usually become hard after spending some time in the tandoor. But the Sunheri Jhinga(Shamiana Prawns) retains it’s juiciness along with the delectable flavours. With Ruchi at the table, the vegetarian appetizers also make their way to the table. The Navratan Khaas (Azeezun’s Glory) is a Kebab of exquisite taste of nine vegetables, nuts and spices. The Badshaahi Aloo (General’s Pride) with sesame seeds on the potato jacket strike as a perfect complement.
Chef Pogakula doesn’t spare us in the mains and lays out his plethora of dishes all around the table. The first thing that strikes me is that there is a Machcher Jhol with Cauliflowers (East India Fish Curry). A thin curry so quintessential of the Bengali lifestyle brought to life by the kitchens of The Imperial. A creamy succulent Butter Chicken (Grilled Gymkhana Chicken) also adorns our table but the dishes that really impressed me were the Eral Curry which a rendition of prawns from Madras and the Pepper Mutton (Burra Memsahib’s Favourite). The Keerai Masial (Merchant’s Bouty) leaves us spellbound with the simplistic flavours while the Dal Makhni switches up flavour profiles using milk instead of cream.
We end off with a platter of their sweet dishes. There are some warm Gulab Jamuns and Matka Kulfi on it. But it’s the delectably warm Shahi Tukda and Kesar Phirni that we finish spoonfulls of. In the words of Mr. Vijay Wanchoo Sr. Executive Vice President & General Manager The Imperial New Delhi “Imperial restoration experts have worked tirelessly to return the culinary tradition of our ancient land.” Do try out the Daniell’s Tavern at The Imperial for a culinary journey through India.
