Our first pit stop on the way to Kathmandu with the Scout My Trip team was the land of Nawabs, Lucknow. The seat of power of the Awadhi kingdom also a witness of royal British era is a travelers paradise! From kebabs to biryanis, from ancient monuments with influences of Persia and modern structures under the English, wander around in the city for a day or two and you’ll realize that the taste, the smell and the air of the city scream magic! We were expertly taken around the city by Saumya from Road to Taste and I was totally enamored by the pride she has in her hometown. Although you are going to find a plethora of guides suggesting what to see and what to eat, we at Salt and Sandals presents to you an expert guide on Food and Monument pairing in Lucknow which is surely going to help you to get best of the city during your next trip to the city. Each of the eating places and their relevant monument is placed at a convenient distance from each other. We stayed at OYO rooms, Lucknow during our trip.
Food and Monument pairing in Lucknow
Aminabad
Aminabad is one of the most famous and oldest parts of Lucknow. People always seem to rush to this market buying a plethora of items like clothes, shoes, cosmetics, hardware, books, bags and even wedding shopping. On Thursdays, the main market is closed but there is footpath market from where you can do some street shopping. Located 4 km from Aminabad, Chota Imambara also known as Hussianabad Imambara was built as a congregation hall for Shia Muslims, by Muhammad Ali Shah, the third Nawab of Awadh in 1838. There is some really beautiful architecture to admire at the Chota Imambara. The domes on top of the Imambara are embellished with various patterns and the interiors are beautifully made up in colours of gold and green. There is a gold engraved painting which has the all the verses of Quran embedded into it. The Nawab was a big fan of the Taj Mahal and he also has a replica of it made up for himself in that along with a Hamam, Royal Bath.
After admiring the beauty of Chota Imambara one has to try the legendary Kebabs at Tundey Kebabi in Aminabad. The Tundey Kebabi is so known as it is Galawati Kebab made by the shop owner Late Haji Murad Ali. His presence of only one arm meant that he was colloquially known is Tundey in Hindi and that is where the name has stuck. The legendary Galawati kebab is created after using a mixture made of more than 150 spices. It should be tried with either a Mughlai Parantha or my favourite, Sheermal. Not only that, you should also try out the Boti Kebab and Chicken Biryani too. Just a few steps away, the Prakash Kulfi waala serves up some delectable Kulfi Falooda, a frozen sweet dish tracing its origins to the Mughal empire.
Price: Plate of Kebabs (INR 80), The Bara Imambara ticket is valid for Chota Imambara, Guide: INR 100
Hazratganj
The Bara Imambara is one of the most imposing of monuments on the face of Lucknow’s landscape. This monolith took about 14 years to complete under the patronage of the 4th Nawab of Awadh, Asaf-Ud-Daula with the design of architect Hafiz Kifayat Ullah, a Shahjahanabadi and a prominent architect of that time. The Imambara displays some of the peaks of Persian and Mughal elements. The first floor houses the seat of power of the Imams along with vaulted ceilings that display a particular country’s architecture. The Imambara is not a monument where celebrations take place, instead, it is the place where the Shia Muslims mourn Muharram. The walls of this ancient building are made with an extensive mixture consisting of pulses, jaggery, honey amongst other things. The mosque outside is bracing for Friday prayers as I catch The arches house some of the best Muslim calligraphy and sculptings. There is a narrow complex of tunnels that runs along the walls which consist of the Bhool Bhulaiyya (maze). Your guide will take you to the top floor and then let you find your way around the maze to the entrance.
Lucknow is famous for it’s Chaat and nothing can match up to offerings at Royal Cafe in Hazratganj market. We made our way to Hazratganj where we planned to eat some of Lucknow’s chaat. This is where I met the Chaat King. Boisterous by nature, HD Maurya has become a social media sensation. His Basket Chaat and Palak Patta Chaat are tangy to the point and give you a flavour that is so special of Lucknow.
Plate of Chaat for 2: INR 100, Ticket to Bada Imambara: INR 50, Guide: INR 250
Sadar Bazar
With so much of the Mughal architecture on display, we take a look at some of the British monuments. The Residency was the home to the British Resident General who was part of the court at the Fifth Nawab of Awadh. The Residency bore a huge amount of damage during the Lucknow siege in the First War of Independence in 1857. This monument is a testament to the tyranny of the British and their luck when they were able to defend this area. Even today, the cannon scarred walls brought me a sore reminder of the fight that could have been. A number of undeserving Britishers were given the Victoria Cross who did nothing more than save soldiers of their own clan. There are a plethora of buildings whose walls only stand today. Two British age cannons also stay guard as I wander through the ruins. If only the Indian soldiers loyal to the British had defeated in 1857, this structure wouldn’t have stood today.
About two kilometers away from the Residency lies the Sadar Bazar. One of the iconic places to eat here is Chappan Bhog. I tried out one of my favourite breakfast things to try out, the Kachori. The Kachori here is served a bit differently with a dry potato mixture rather than a curried version. One of the other things that I do try is Jalebi and the Malai Paan. These two sweets will give you a sugar rush in the mornings that you’ll not forget easily.
Ticket: INR 50 and Price for 2 at Chappan Bhog: INR 100
Chowk
The Chowk is one of the essential places to buy the famous Chikan garment from. The Sarrafa Bazar of Lucknow is situated in Chowk which is the ideal place to shop for jewellery. About 2kms from Chowk Bus stand is the Lucknow Zoo. It was established in the year 1921 to commemorate the visit of His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales to Lucknow.
If you are a food loving person then don’t miss going Chowk, here you will find the best quality of non-veg food available in Lucknow. For the real flavor of Dum Biryani, you have to go to a small shop in the Chowk area–Idris Dhaba. Forget the class for some time and indulge yourself in the soft aroma of Dum Biryani as it is cooked over a low fire in a sealed, heavy-bottomed pan. Slow cooking ensures that the meat retains all its natural aroma and taste indulges with the richness of the flavours of its juices.
Gomti Nagar
Gomti Nagar is popular for Ambedkar Memorial Park, a public park, and memorial in Gomti Nagar. The park honors the lives and memories of Jyotirao Phule, Narayana Guru, Birsa Munda, Shahuji Maharaj, Bhimrao Ambedkar, Kanshi Ram and all those who’ve devoted their life for humanity, equality and social justice. Apart from Ambedkar Memorial Park, Gomti nagar is also famous for it’s Handi Chicken. As the name suggests, the chicken here is cooked in an earthen pot (over coal in a one-meter-deep hole). The original Kalika Hut is in Azamgarh, but Lucknow’s Gomti Nagar serve the same taste, with a lovely aroma. Its combination with Lucknow’s best sheermals is just mind-blowing.
Lucknow is now one of my favourite places to discover food and culture and Saumya’s expert navigation of this city allowed me to see it like never before.
