Food is a funny concept indeed. It can comfort you in the saddest of times and it can surprise you in the most unexpected of times. Now I have repeatedly heard how authors have been taken on culinary journeys by Chefs. All I made of that was”Blah, that ain’t true. That’s just fanciful writing”. But Chef Vikramjit Roy at Tian, ITC Maurya proved me wrong. It’s not just the flavours that wow you, it’s the description of each and every dish along with the concept behind it that is so charmingly endearing.
His end of winter menu couldn’t have captured the season in a better way. He utilizes the last of peas and black carrots in a way I haven’t experienced before. There are two soups, one inside the other with a trifecta of flavours. The black carrot soup enveloping the pea soup in a loving embrace, the hint of clove will remain on your palate for a very long time.
Chef Roy is a big fan of art and it is pretty much evident in the way he plates his food. Although his favourite is Jackson Pollock’s drip style painting, this menu of his veers more towards a contemporary clean cut style. The eight styles of onion presents onion as the hero. Even though halibut adorns our plate, the onions in all their forms, textures and tastes makes you fall in love with this humble vegetable. There is sweetness, a puree, some rancidity and also some marrow to pull out.
“I believe food should bring back memories.” says Vikramjit. He truly does so with the way we start our meal. I am a big fan of rice crisps and pretty much have them with every meal, much to my mother’s chagrin. But he starts me off with a rice crispy of his own. Made of Jasmine rice, it holds a small sphere of yellow Thai curry. Eat it in one go and you’re transport to the land of Smiles.
But the best part of the meal are not the heroes, it’s when a protagonist stands up and expresses itself. The protagonist on this menu is “Who killed the goat.” The lamb chop is balanced on top of a splashed beetroot sauce which gives it a beautiful earthy flavour. Some asparagus and a generous sprinkling of lemon gives it some tangy overtones. A potato chip made with dehydrated potato water adds another layer of flavours.
We end off with the Snowfall to end the winter for this season. There is some Raspberry Panna Cotta, Yuzu Matcha Ice Cream along with Yuzu Raspberry Sorbet. Its an intense combination of sweet and sour on a beautifully adorned plate. Chef Vikramjit’s menus tell you a story of intense innovation and hard work pushing food to its extreme and creating an experience you won’t forget easily.
Where: Tian, ITC Maurya
Price for 2: INR 5000
