We undertake a trip to the tea estates of Munnar also known as the ‘summer resort’ of south India nestled amidst the picturesque Western Ghats, to dig up a treasure trove on one of the world’s most loved beverages.
India runs on tea. But for a country whose daily workforce survives on tea breaks, it is surprising to know how fewer Indians know about this popular beverage. With Delhi and Mumbai waking up to wine dinners and Gurugram and Bengaluru housing a plethora of micro-breweries, our good old tea has somewhat taken a back seat. It was in this context that I decided to undertake a trip to the tea estates of Munnar , Kerala of South India.
Refreshing start
The mist-laden roads leading up to Munnar are a welcome break from the hot, muggy sun of Kochi, as I head to an old, colonial-style plantation resort. I start my journey from the tea estates of Kannan Devan Hills Company Plantation Ltd during the morning plucking season. The drizzle on the luscious green leaf pods releases a powerful scent of the newly harvested tea. As I tuck in a breakfast of cheese omelette and sausages, the women of the tea estate are already at work. Dressed in similar uniforms, I observe the women as they pluck out two leaves and a bud.
For me, the way the women were plucking the leaves was a pleasant surprise. There has been a massive change in the techniques from the earlier hand-picking method to the use of new-age automated machines. These machines increase the length of the leaves that are plucked and are commonly used in the mass-produced CTC tea that most of us drink today. Around 10 am, most of these women take a break as I share a bite from their lunch boxes. Malleshwari, one of the tea pickers, tells me how she has kept her family’s finances running through this leaf-plucking activity at the tea estate.
Passing on the tradition
From a tea garden to a tea factory, the journey of the tea leaf is quite an interesting one. With centuries worth of knowledge available, the Lockhart Tea Estate in Munnar is trying to re-educate Indians with the nuances of tea production. Prabhakaran G, executive, personnel, Lockhart Tea Estate, takes me around the 150-year-old factory. “Although a number of people visit the tea gardens on a daily basis, very few actually try and understand what goes behind the tea leaf that we admire so much,” he says, as a tray of Orange Pekoe makes its way to my table.
The rustic old machinations take us back in time as we understand the intricate, yet complex, the process of converting tea leaves into tea. One of the essential things that I learn is the difference between CTC tea, which involves crushing of tea leaves, and the whole leaf variety that gives off a taste unlike anything else I have tasted before. Prabhakaran digs his hands into huge sacks of tea as he shows me the difference. The tea leaf goes through multiple sessions of drying, rolling and then finally gets sorted according to size.
Our next visit is to the tea museum where the Lockhart Tea Factory pays homage to its 150-year-old tradition. There are photos from a bygone era along with a plethora of tools that have helped shape the landscape of Munnar’s hills. The factory also sells its premium range of teas at a small shop where one can buy them at throwaway prices. We buy boxes of Orange Pekoe and Frost Tea, which is specifically grown when frost covers the tea gardens. The white tea is also a revelation. It consists of the youngest of the shoots and provides a ton of antioxidants in every sip.
Tasting time
No tea trail is complete without an intricate tea-tasting session. The Windermere Estate is the perfect place to taste the best of Munnar’s tea reduction. The perennial cloud cover helps retain the fragrance of the brewed tea, unlike the plains. The Windermere Estate provides for such an ambiance with an old-world English touch that’s complete with stone buildings and moss-covered steps. The tea-tasting sessions are organized by Senthil Kumar, head of Kestrel Adventures, one of the many adventure tour organisers in Munnar.
For around half an hour, we swirl, twirl and sniff through cups of tea understanding the amazing cornucopia of flavours and aromas that they offer. From the full-leaved Orange Pekoe to the dust of CTC, the range and strength of flavours that are available are truly mesmerising. The tea shop at The Windermere Estate offers you another shot at trying teas from the neighbouring estates. Here, the focus is more on spicy flavours like cardamom and ginger. We combine it with some lovely conversation as night sinks on the estate.
Another way of truly immersing yourself into understanding what goes into the making of the perfect tea is the ‘make your own tea’ program. High up in the hills of Western Ghats, about an hour’s drive from Munnar is the Thalayar Tea Estate. We are encouraged to involve ourselves with the daily life of the workers, be it the tea pickers or the factory workers. It is truly an innovative experience as we taste some perfectly brewed tea that is nurtured all the way from the leaf to the cup.
The beauty of tea lies in its ability to combine Indians over conversations. ‘Gupshup over Chai’ acts as an ice breaker as well as a stimulant for all those long nights. But discovering the history, stories and the families behind the tea leaves is an invigorating experience indeed.
Growing Tea
Why the tea-laden hills of Munnar are so beautiful.
- Tea bushes are planted 1 metre to 1.5 metres apart to follow the natural contours of the landscape.Specially prepared terraces are used to grow tea to eliminate the chances of erosion.
- Tea bushes are regularly pruned and shaped in the same height to maintain consistency of each hill’s appearance.
- Also, trees are planted in between tea bushes to save them from intense heat and harsh light.A tea plant needs to be plucked and pruned ever 5-10 days depending upon its growth rate.
Travel tips:
Best Time: Carry warm clothing and windcheaters to enjoy even during spells of rain. The weather in Munnar in September is extremely pleasant. Several streams flowing down the hills make for a beautiful setting.
Getting around: The nearest airport to Munnar is Kochi. It is best to hire cabs or private vehicles to move around in Munnar for a comfortable stay.
What to eat: The food available in Munnar is interesting. It is a mix of south Indian and north Indian cuisines. However, don’t be surprised to see curry leaves in almost every dish you order. If opting for Keralan dishes, creamy coconut curries and the aroma of locally grown spices are must-haves.
Don’t miss: Once you are in Munnar, don’t forget to check out the ‘Tea Museum’ at Nallathanni Estate. Also, visit Mattupetty in the vicinity for recreational activities like boating and spotting wild elephants.
