The Malabar coast located in the south west India has been a hotbed for naval trade for centuries. One of the principal ports on this coast, Kochi has been visited by the Portuguese, Dutch and people from all over Europe in search of their fortunes. This has led to the city being a prime location for cultural amalgamation. But when I am told that there still exists a small Jewish community here, my North Indian sensibilities fail me. As I had to see it to believe it, we head over to the quaint little Jewish settlement in Fort Kochi in search of the last few remaining Jews of Cochin.
Along the way I nudge my host John to tell me how the Jewish families landed up in India. The first of the Jews who settled near Cochin can have their lineage traced back to the days of King Solomon. Freely interacting with the local Malayali population, they built beautiful synagogues throughout Kerala. The second addition to the population happened when a few families of Sephardic Jews from the Iberian Peninsula travelled along the Arab spice route and settled here in 1492.
The Paradesi Synagogue
The whole of Jew Town is established around the mystical Paradesi Synagogue and the small street leading up to it is flush with colours. The intermingling of blue, red and yellow happens in such a majestical fashion that it almost leaves you spellbound. We head over to the synagogue where we meet up with Yaheh Hallegua, one of the few remaining Jewish inhabitants of Kochi. Her practised Malayalam surprises us as she asks her subordinates to close up the synagogue for the afternoon.
The Paradesi Synagogue (named so as it was built by those of European descent) is divided into an outer sanctuary before moving into the main prayer area inside. A small museum on our right just as we enter depicts the centuries old history of Jewish community. There are paintings tracing the origin from King Solomon to the establishment of the synagogue in the latter half of the 16th century.
Although the initial Jewish settlements were in the Craganmore area, the Portuguese attacks in the 15th century rendered them homeless. It is said that the then Jewish prince, Joseph Azar swam to Cochin with his wife on his shoulders and placed himself under the protection of the Maharaja of Cochin, Kehsava Ravi Varma. The Maharaja later provided them land for a synagogue right next to his palace in Mantacherry.
We leave our shoes outside as we enter the main prayer area, a tradition that has been imbibed from the Hindu culture. The main prayer area of the synagogue is astounding and leaves me wide-eyed with lights reflecting off chandeliers of every colour possible. The central pulpit is bordered by brass railing while hardwood benches provide the seating area. The prayer area also houses the original copper plates of privileges given to Joseph Rabban, the earliest known leader of the community in Cochin.
Sarah Cohen’s shop
Back out on the street, I try to find the remnants of the community that once thrived here. As many of the original inhabitants have migrated back to Israel, their places have been taken up by Kashmiri merchants selling spices and local handicrafts. But one place that has stood the test of time is Sarah’s Handicrafts. As we enter, the Star of David is seen prominently on the windows while the bars are painted blue and white in respect of the Israeli flag. At 94, Sarah Cohen is the oldest remaining member of the community. Her shop is known for the mezuzahs and challah covers that Sarah used to stitch herself but now her hands simple don’t have the same dexterity anymore.
I sit down with Thaha Ibrahim, a muslim who has been taking care of Sarah. His son Suleiman shows us around the house and specially her black and white photographs. Although my brain has started spinning from all the knowledge that I have gained in the past hour or two, what astounds me is the unfaltering love between two cultures which have been at loggerheads in the Middle-East in Kochi’s Jew Town.
Koder House
Any visit to the Jewish quarters of Kochi is not complete without a visit to Koder House. Overlooking the Arabian Sea and the Chinese fishing nets that Fort Kochi is so known for, this red brick building is holding the torch of the Jewish tradition in the city. Built by Samuel Koder, an 18th century Dutch entrepreneur, it is now a heritage hotel. Tucked away in a street full of boutique hotels, it stands out with its bright red colour and attention to detail.
The dining room of the hotel traces the history of the house while the rooms are built in style so reminiscent of Dutch architecture. The teak wood panelling on the floors and staircases along with the four poster beds take us back to an era when imperialism was at its peak. This six roomed hotel pays homage to the ancient Jewish traditions and offers a meal including a traditional Jewish pudding that surpasses quite a few expectations.
Although I had gone to this part of Fort Kochi to discover the history of Jews in India, what I found instead is a culture slowly fading away. Services at the synagogue are far and few in between and are usually only held with the inclusion of Jewish tourists to make up minyan (a group of 10 men needed to form a prayer service). Do try out to catch the last Jews of Kochi before they are lost in the pages of history.
This article was first published in The Quint on 29th June 2017.
